Joy and Pain

Day 47/May 7, 2009 (Thursday)

It’s hard to describe the excitement that wells within as you prepare for a summit bid on the highest mountain in the world. Years of dreaming, reading and training have led up to this moment in life, with a chance to overcome the lost summit of last year. I was up at precisely 01:51 --- not 01:50 or 01:52 --- and I tossed and turned thereafter. Clothing and gear on by 03:50, breakfast at 04:00, and on the trail to Crampon Point at 04:32.

Danuru and I began in earnest at 04:50, setting a brisk but comfortable pace, eventually linking up with Karel and Karma Rita. Three hours total time to Camp I --- by far my best time up --- even though I was holding back energy in reserves for the summit days ahead!

After a brief rest stop at Camp I, we had nothing but Camp II on our minds. The sun had just hit the Western Cwm, but light gusty winds made the going bearable. About 15 minutes above Camp I, I received a call that my friend and climbing partner Rejean and his Sherpa Dawa, would need to descend to EBC. In the process of their descent, they would experience the worst avalanche of the season, narrowly escaping mortal injury by hiding behind an ice block, and aid in the rescue of two climbers who had been swept into a crevasse. A Sherpa traveling with the pair remains missing. I mourn the loss of this fellow mountain man, although I never really knew him --- I had probably said “Namaste” to him earlier in the mourning, as is my custom [slowing to give a greeting is always warmly received by the Sherpas, and it allows me a chance to slightly recover my breath].

I had been in great spirits up through the Icefall, simply pleased with my time and conditioning --- but by the time I got up to Camp II, my climbing partner had had to abort his summit bid, and a fatal avalanche had let loose from the West Shoulder of Everest. Chilling. I want nothing more than to top out on Everest in the next few days, and never pass through the Icefall again…

Namaste,
Scott